Archive for september, 2013

Restaurang Tradition – vällagad och prisvärd svensk husmanskost

Mars/juli 2013

Tradition serverar enligt egen utsago rekorderlig husmanskost till ett överkomligt pris. Och det får man väl säga stämmer på pricken. Svenska klassiker som köttbullar, stekt strömming, blodpudding, Biff Rydberg och Wallenbergare är det som gäller och även om priserna har höjts på sista tiden så ligger inga rätter över 200 kr. Maten är mycket god och vällagad och ger hemtrevliga och gammaldags pilsnerfilm med Bullen Berglund och Dagmar Ebbesen-vibbar, samtidigt som inredningen är modernt ljus och avskalad. Man avhåller man sig dock från en överdriven minimalistisk stil, miljön är snarare lite IKEA-trygg.

Tradition

Tradition

Tradition drivs av Jonas Petersson och Fredrik Sjöblom och finns numera på både Tulegatan 10 och Tjärhovsgatan 5. Ambitionen är att starta en restaurang i varje stadsdel i Stockholms innerstad, vilket man bara kan gratulera stockholmarna till. Det ska dock sägas att restaurangen på Tjärhovsgatan, som är mindre än sin systerkrog, drogs med ganska tryckande värme i somras, fläktlös som den var. Friska fläktar sprider däremot personalen som vid alla besök har varit underbart pigga, glada och tillmötesgående.

Tradition

Till den lite mer bastanta och gräddiga svenska husmanskosten känns det helt rätt att dricka öl. Och på Tradition har man några spännande flasköl från lokala mikrobryggerier, t ex de smakrika Off The Rails Pale Ale (65 kr) från Train Station Brewery och I f*king ❤ bunnies från Södra Maltfabriken (ca 65 kr).

Tradition

Tradition

Middagarna började med knäckebröd, underbar kavring och smör som hade perfekt konsistens och några goda saltflagor på toppen:

TraditionTradition

Förrätt
Vill man bara ha något litet till förrätt, så passar kaviar- och västerbottenostkräm med tunnbröd bra. Salt och krämigt (59 kr):

Tradition

Förrätt
God inkokt lax med ett fint pocherat ägg, kokt sparris (tyvärr lite sladdrig, grillad sparris är alltid att föredra framför kokt) och len dillmajonnäs. Med en härlig, rejäl och mörkgrön dillruska – det är alltid lika trist när man bli utsatt för den där bleka, veka Svegro-dillen (130 kr):

Tradition

Förrätt
Toast Skagen, gubbröra på kavring och löjromstoast. Det är en lysande idé att kombinera de här svenska klassikerna till en förrätt. Och vill man visa upp de svenska mattraditionerna för icke invigda, så är det här man ska börja. Det är vackert, lagom salt och gott och det blir en guldstjärna för de generösa mängderna löjrom (165 kr):

Tradition

Varmrätt
En saftig Biff Lindström innehållande de sedvanliga finhackade rödbetorna, kaprisen samt senap, med persiljesmör på toppen och rostad färskpotatis med lite skal kvar som tillbehör (168 kr):

Tradition

Varmrätt
Fint trillade köttbullar med en aning kryddpeppar, en något för söt gräddsås med härligt syrlig pressgurka och goda rårörda lingon, samt ett lent och smörglänsande potatismos – det känns som ett helgerån att klaga på för mycket smör i ett potatismos, men Tradition balanserar lite på gränsen här i sina smörexcesser (160 kr):

Tradition


Varmrätt

Frasigt stekta senapspanerade strömmingar med brynt smör, dill och citron, samt potatismos (145 kr):

Tradition

Varmrätt
Något torra oxrullader med härlig gräddsås, rönnbärsgelé och potatismos (190 kr):

Tradition

Potatismoset som ingår i flera rätter går bra att byta ut mot stekt potatis eller en liten sallad (30 kr), om man föredrar det.

Tradition

Efter de mycket generösa för- och varmrätterna, så har vi inte riktigt mäktat med någon dessert på Tradition. Men har man fortfarande plats för något sött, så erbjuds det bl a varm nyponsoppa med kardemummaglass och smulpaj med äpple och vaniljsås (från 75 kr).

Tradition
Tulegatan 10 och Tjärhovsgatan 5

http://www.restaurangtradition.se

Annonser

september 25, 2013 at 19:59 Lämna en kommentar

Battersby, Brooklyn – a review of a tiny restaurant with a big heart

August 2013

I was planning to bring my fellow Swedish friend K, who had his birthday recently, to a good restaurant in his second hometown New York City. But where should you bring someone who hangs out with opera singers and models, and gets his three layered birthday cake from the guy (everythinglulu.com) who bakes the cakes for Madonna?

Well, as it turned out, to an unassuming shoebox-size place with bare light bulbs, and no entrance sign in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn.

Battersby

The great little restaurant Battersby is hidden behind an anonymous front on 255 Smith Street. There are no table cloths, no expensive silver ware, no artful decoration and a no-reservations policy (except for the tasting menu). Only beautiful, tasty, honest and affordable upscale New American cuisine – on our visit, brought to us by a soft-spoken, kind and patient waitress.

Battersby

Battersby is co-owned by the chefs Walker Stern och Joseph Ogrodnek, who met at the Culinary Institute of America where they graduated in 2002 – the name Battersby refers to the street in Philadelphia, were Ogrodnek grew up. They later worked together at the now closed three Michelin starred restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Essex House in New York, as well as at other fine dining restaurants, before opening Battersby in the fall of 2011.

The Battersby cooking team also consists of the sous-chef Michael Sowa (The Vanderbilt), and the pastry chef Jared Rubin (Gramercy Tavern), along with a few other cooks.

Battersby

Stern and Ogrodnek are involved in everything from creating the menus, going to the market and doing the preparation, to the cooking in the tiny open kitchen during service. The kitchen has just enough space for three or four people, and the team execute what looks like a carefully choreographed dance, cooking at fast speed without bumping into each other, seven nights a week.

Battersby

The chefs use their knowledge of French culinary techniques as a base for their cooking and plating, but also mixes it with influences from, for example Italian, Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines. The ingredients are fresh and locally produced, and all dishes, including the bread, are made on the premises.

Battersby’s menu is divided into First (Heirloom Carrots, Roasted Beans, Water Melon Salad etc), Second (Veal Sweetbreads, Fregola Sarda, Pappardelle etc), Third (Roasted Lobster, Short Rib, Black Bass etc) and Desserts (Angel Food Cake, Grapefruit Panna Cotta, Salted Caramel Mousse etc). The prices range from about $10 to $37, and the menu changes daily.

The best deal is, however, the Spontaneous Tasting Menus (five courses for $65, or seven courses for $85), and also the only way to get a reserved table at Battersby – which is a must for me, as I am one of those people who have difficulty waiting an hour for food when I am really hungry.

The magazine Bon Appétit named Battersby’s Kale Salad the best dish of the year in 2012. But I was a little relieved, to tell the truth, that our five courses Tasting Menu didn’t include the NYC still ongoing kale salad food craze – though, I am sure it would have been wonderful! During my short stay in New York, kale salad turned up on every other menu across the city, so the excitement for the dish disappeared pretty fast. I should mention to the Swedish readers, that kale is grönkål, something we rarely see on a Swedish dinner table, except during Christmas.

Our five courses Spontaneous Tasting Menu (a total of ten courses, including complimentary flatbread and ricotta cheese, as well as four amuse-bouches):

Amuse-bouche: Tomato consommé served in a demitasse cup. A wonderful rich taste of sun-ripened tomatoes in a single sweet slug:

Battersby

Complimentary: A warm, soft and crusty Flatbread (foccacia-style) sprinkled with rosemary and salt, served with a smooth whipped ricotta cheese seasoned with black pepper and olive oil:

Battersby

Amuse-bouche: A flavourful Ratatouille of stewed okra etc, on a crisp crostino. The pretty crown dill on top made us reminiscent of the traditional Swedish Crayfish Parties in August, where you eat crayfish boiled in a brine with crown dill. And drink lots and lots of Aquavit (which is always a good idea when you are eating tiny arthropods…) :

Battersby

Roasted green and yellow Summer Squash with capers, walnuts, currants, olive oil, and seasoned with the Italian fish sauce Colatura, made of fermented anchovies. On the top; a piece of deep-fried, crispy Zucchini Blossom. Vegetables at their best:

Battersby

Squid Ink Tagliatelle with mussels and tender lobster in a seafood broth, sprinkled with crusty breadcrumbs. And small pieces of chorizo sausage (which we thought were salsiccia), playing the part of the meat bone in the Borscht, or the chicken stock in the Jerusalem artichoke soup, i.e. the crucial meat component that fulfil an otherwise meat-free dish:

Battersby

Red Snapper with Asian condiments: long beans (sparrisbönor), Thai Basil, Bok Choy and ginger, on a creamy sauce with basil, yellow and green squash. I loved the Asian flavours, and the look of the dish could not have been more summer-like:

Battersby

A very nice Lamb loin with pan fried fairytale eggplant (the small purple kind) and a red pianillo pepper stuffed with ground lamb, on a Middle Eastern influenced purée of cumin flavoured hummus, and whole chickpeas, decorated with a few very healthy and slightly lemony purslane leaves (portlak):

Battersby

We got two different desserts to share.

Angel Food Cake (sockerkaka gjord på enbart äggvitor), a cantaloupe sorbet with moscato sabayon, plums, blackberries, and crispy granola. A tasty and tangy dessert, just the way I prefer it:

Battersby

Strawberry Parfait with marinated strawberries, decorated with strawberry cream, candied glazed pistachios, and French meringue. A very cute and sweet dessert, perhaps a little bit too sweet for my taste:

Battersby

We finished the dinner off with a macchiato served in a jar, some calvados served in a champagne glass (why be ordinary, right?), and a perfect coconut and lime Macaron (amuse-bouche). It was unbelievably fresh and tender, had great flavours, and was miles better than the coconut macaron (a substitute for the sold out and overhyped croissant/doughnut hybrid, the Cronut) I had at the Dominique Ansel Bakery in Soho. I would never stand in line for two hours for a pastry. A plate of perfect risotto, on the other hand…

Battersby

The Battersby experience was truly wonderful in every way. A good table by the window (make an early reservation, preferably when they open at 5.30 pm), sweet and helpful service, and a combination of dishes which were not only flavourful, tasty and beautiful on the plate, but also managed to give me the feeling of: “Aww, I got my favourite dish!”, when a new plate arrived. What else can you possibly ask for?

Battersby
255 Smith Street, Brooklyn, New York
http://battersbybrooklyn.com/

september 4, 2013 at 20:16 12 kommentarer


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